Salaryman

In Justin Holt’s dream no-reservations izakaya, the kitchen divides a chicken into umpteen parts and grills each individually over charcoal. Enoki mushrooms wrapped in koji-cured bacon are crave-worthy, as are the ramens, whether creamy paitan broth or gossamer chintan broth, fragrant with lemon oil. Tsukemono (pickles), shoyu, togarashi, and noodles are all housemade.