Tulum

This upscale, modern Mexican restaurant evokes the Yucatan jungle with banana-leaf fronds patterning the walls, then plays fast and loose with its references. Fresh-made cactus- and epazote-infused masa tortillas topped with mushrooms join the artfulness of a vegan ceviche—varied mushrooms, brightened by citrus—to mound on plantain chips. A tangy sopa verde or the Milanese-style flounder with a delicate Parmesan crust are excellent choices to accompany well-built cocktails that made fine work of agaves.