This former hole in the wall has expanded into a two-story patioed location. It’s still cash-only, and service is still kind and unhurried. Don’t be timid. Tlayudas, massive tortillas that are lightly charred, can come stuffed with grasshoppers, which taste like the shells of sunflower seeds. And don’t miss the enmoladas, a stack of handmade tortillas enrobed in the house mole negro. The chocolaty, spicy mole is the kind a grandmother would make.