Cody Ulrich
The remodeled French Room Bar is like an Orientalist boudoir, enigmatic and lush in textures, with blue velvet banquettes flanking a red lacquer chinoiserie mantel. It seems an appropriate place to wear a silk dressing gown and sip a $75 tableside-assembled martini that comes with accoutrements: a spoonful of caviar, sea beans, and lemon juice turned into a pearl by means of molecular gastronomy.