Kevin Marple
The Park Cities strip-mall restaurant, from the team behind East Hampton Sandwich Co., is busy. This is clearly a neighborhood restaurant. Our server is young and doting.We start with the shrimp cocktail. A white ceramic bowl is crammed with shaved ice. Four enormous shrimp from the Gulf of Mexico sit on top along with house-made rémoulade and cocktail sauce. The cocktail sauce is the best component of the dish; a bright mix of Heinz ketchup, fresh grated horseradish, lemon juice, Worscheshire, Tabasco, sea salt, and cracked pepper. The American Tuna Tower outshines the shrimp scampi and grilled Idaho trout. The dish, listed as a salad, is a satisfying mix of mashed avocado, cherry tomatoes, arugula and wild green mix, and Ahi tuna that’s tossed with wasabi vinaigrette, layered, and topped with sesame oil, tobiko, and micro greens. Make sure to leave room for the Key lime pie.