Those who love tacos count Olmy and Ismael Sanchez’s taqueria as a place of pilgrimage, filing in from the truncated parking lot under the insignia with a winged luchador—a symbol of the Sanchezes’ own pilgrimage—for tacos and breakfasts (these involve house-made chorizo and egg). Start with the chips (totopos), craggy and sturdy, that make a definite cracking crunch when you bite; the guacamole, with its secret ingredient of orange—yes!—making it ever so slightly sweet and tart, brilliant and unexpected; or the frijoles picantes, with jalapeño sauce, bright green against the deep purple-black of refried beans.