DeSoto

Kendon Greene’s tiny takeout spot offers lip-smacking brisket covered with a bark scented with a rub of cumin, curry powder, pepper, Kosher salt, and turmeric. Pulled pork is equally magical.

The original location on Maple Avenue opened in 1969, and not a whole lot has changed in 40 years. Everything about the place is comfortable, from the sincere waitstaff to the old-school decor to the endless numbers of combo plates.…