Hickory is by far the dominant cooking wood for barbecue in this area, but Travis Mayes chooses the state tree of Texas (pecan) to fuel his smoker. It's a challenge to find the joint itself, much less a place to park. Ordering is done by shouting into a small screened portion of a soot-covered window. Then a figure appears in the smoky concrete box to hand over a brown sack full of perfectly smoked meat.
