This reliable fixture offers authentic delicacies worth trying under the heading “cultural cuisine”—raw skate, raw crab, pig’s feet, Korean steak tartare. There is a satisfying haemul pajeon pancake, almost as many grill-at-table options as Koryo Kalbi (including tongue but not duck), and a whole host of meats done in the kitchen. With the quality of the banchan, the classicism of souffled eggs and purple rice, and the attentiveness of the service, do you really need to grill it yourself?