Overeasy

The Statler laid a golden egg with this hotel restaurant. Graham Dodds, whose chef’s touches had been denied us since Wayward Sons closed, is back in the kitchen, sending out perfect omelets: clouds of eggs and Parmesan that have formed a spiritual pact with finely chopped chives. Biscuits—flaky, bronzed, with buttery heft—are receptive to the graces of a light cream gravy. We needed this: a cheerful, all-day breakfast spot downtown.