This restaurant in the former Magnolia Oil building is a hodgepodge of Nick Badovinus’ bests: it has the seafood of Montlake Cut, the fajitas and verve of Desert Racer, the steaks of theatrical Town Hearth, and the brag- gadocio of them all. The Reuben—griddle-crisped pastrami, Russian slaw, sauerkraut, and Creole mustard—is the anthem we sing.
