At this dark, hip spot in Deep Ellum, a long, narrow room with a 24-seat counter is where you order handrolls, warm sushi rice and a tartare of seafood rolled into a cylinder of crisp nori. Fluffy red crab has a low rumble of flavor from garlic aioli and spicy tuna gets crunch from bits of deep-fried yam. Vegetable combinations like mountain yam or gourd are uneven. Don’t miss shareable bites like crispy Brussels sprouts or yellowtail collar dusted with togarashi spice.
