Huge orders may come out in Viking boats, but the quality of the fish is indisputable. San Diego uni comes with a raw quail egg yolk tucked into the collar of nori, lending a regal richness. You can get freshwater eel, not sauced but simply broiled with salt, a marvel so buttery it seems a sin. Once you know the secret, you can’t help but return. The chefs are thoughtful about sequencing if you order omakase. And the welcome is far warmer than its strip mall location would suggest.