In Julian Barsotti’s fourth restaurant, the vibe is classy Italian-American, with midnight blue walls and tuxedoed servers. Lobster fra Diavolo looks like a lavish hairdo and veal parmigiana from an exquisite loin chop comes cratered with house-made mozzarella. Suave service is part of the equation. Antipasti include house-made ricotta and the best garlic bread in the city.
