True to form, the soju list takes you through Japanese shochu and its older and less boozy counterpart, Korean soju, with its rainbow of fruity flavors. Fusion snacks include wasabi squid, grilled mushrooms with sesame oil, and the incomparable “yolo” chicken, served in a skillet with a lake of cheese and tortillas. In this glorious fusion of Korean grub and offbeat modern sleekness, the question is, do you want a $30 shot of single-malt scotch with your honey-butter fries—or a glass of Franzia?