Hotel restaurants serve many masters—guests, locals, weddings. Dragonfly also has the difficult task of carrying off the hipster cachet of the ZaZa. Chef Dan Landsberg seesaws between three square meals a day and sex appeal. He turns out the usual steaks, pastas, and seafood, but his outside-of-the-norm dishes can miss their intended mark. His duck confit with squash and house-made spaetzle is a stunner.
