Congratulations, downtown Dallas. The Baby Back Shak is back. It closed after surviving a fire, but it's up and running and even has its own Facebook fan page. It's the perfect excuse for those of you in North Dallas to come downtown. Just head south on Akard and look for the pink pig smoking a cigar on the side of a black brick building.

Service is curt and efficient, as it must be to accommodate the ever-increasing line at lunch. The Shak bills itself as Memphis-style barbecue, but this place offers a plethora of meat options unequalled in the area. For variety, order the five-meat Shak Platter. The standards of brisket, ribs, and sausage are here, but the options also include smoked bologna, Cornish hen, chicken wing drummies, and an unusual Boudin (a Cajun-style rice- and pork-filled sausage). Most folks swear by the Shak barbecue beans. They are mixed with copious amounts of ground chuck to create a concoction that resembles a hearty bean chili. Ribs are the real meat winner here, with a hefty peppery rub covering perfectly moist and tender meat. Take a trip to the south side, and throw together your own combination.