The little sister of Le Bilboquet offers a concise line-up of beautifully approachable French brasserie fare, with a welcome lightness and nonchalant air. Servers wear “marinière” blue-and-white striped shirts, and garnishes are soft, dainty salads with fresh herbs. In the morning, try soft-scrambled eggs with crème fraiche and caviar. For lunch, quiche Lorraine. For dinner, an impeccable Akaushi steak frites.