Kevin Marple
In this food court-casual spot with colorful pennants and a tuk-tuk cut-out meant for photo-taking, the menu reads like a market with many stalls. Order enough to make the table as colorful as the vintage enamelware. Try moo ping, pork skewers marinated in coconut milk, lemongrass, and palm sugar; hoi tod, a rice-flour crepe, like a rugged-looking fritter, pocked with fat mussels and scrambled eggs that form stratospheres of yellow and white amid the airy, crackly pockets; and Khao soi, a coconut-chicken curry noodle dish from Northern Vietnam. Papaya salad comes three ways, one briny with pounded crab, another laced with salted egg yolk. And the condensed milk-drizzled banana roti is a must for dessert.