The roast chicken nearly made us cry. Brined in sea salt and lemon juice and rubbed with herbes de Provence, it had been given a final broil until its skin was drum-tight and thin like gold leaf, the fat rendered beautifully. They also serve their birds fried with a well-seasoned shaggy golden coat. Plates come with the usual salvo of sides. Black-eyed peas, mashed potatoes under a mild cream gravy, and a refreshing coleslaw with jicama and green apple. Classic Pillsbury-style biscuits are pillowy in a comforting way.