The small size and care of Joanne Bondy’s operation might tempt you to trot out the old adage “Just like Grandma makes,” but her soups and stocks aren’t just like what your grandmother makes. That’s the point. Now all of her training goes into the crafting of seven soups and two stocks. Pork posole is bright with tomatillos. Her lobster bisque is some of the best we’ve ever eaten.