Here’s where you want to gather a crowd for ca nuong, a whole catfish that comes baked to a crispy exterior and flaky interior, showered with peanuts and fried shallots, and flanked by its attendants: vermicelli noodles, piles of herbs, pickled vegetables, dipping sauce, and dry rice paper wrappers you soak and roll around the tastiest morsels, so there’s bliss in every bite.
