It seems like somebody’s dream, the intimate Purépecha room in the back of Regino Rojas’ taqueria, its name evoking a tribe indigenous to his native Michoacán. Gilt-edged plates and white roses take you back in time—to somewhere outside of time, really—with nostalgia and an exotic mystery. A gramophone gently plays Mexican ballads. Against this backdrop, with seating limited to three tables, Rojas and chef Hugo Galvan host intimate tastings five days a week that expand your sense of what is possible for Mexican cuisine in Dallas. Seatings are at 6 and 8 p.m.; the 8-course dinner is a bargain at $85.