This restaurant from Apheleia Restaurant Group, the company behind Oak, Pakpao, El Bolero, and the Royale Magnificent Burgers, has décor that reflects a merchant theme and a menu that’s all over the map. The best bet is Kahlua-style pork shoulder, marinated sous-vide and then grilled on the plancha and served with house-made tortillas. Small plates range from grilled cheese and tomato soup dumplings to tater tot waffles with salmon rillettes. Cocktails tend to be sweet, but include smoky forays into mezcal—as well as punch bowls. The upstairs nook is nice for lounging.