Elizabeth Lavin
Donny Sirisavath went from much-lauded pop-ups to a brick-and-mortar where noodle bowls showcase Laos’ tantalizingly funky flavors. Tapas-style small bites include soured pork meatballs and filled tapioca balls. Dip purple sticky rice in jeow sauces and accompany with beef jerky. Communal tables make neighbors feel like family.