Kevin Marple
At Jalisco Norte, the talents of chef Jose Meza, whose experience includes work at gastronomical meccas Noma in Copenhagen and Pujol in Mexico City, come out in dishes that blend fine technique and indigenous ingredients. Try a hoja santa leaf-wrapped tamale, delicately sauced rather than filled. Nopal salad is laced with chia seeds and brilliant red achiote oil. And roast chicken comes in a rainbow of sauces: encacahuetada, pipian, or mole negro.