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Baker’s Ribs

photography by Kevin Marple

Baker’s Ribs

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A.N. Bewley Fabricators have been making wood-burning barbecue pits for nearly 50 years. From the plant, just a stone’s throw from Fair Park, the owners produce the carbon steel behemoths used by proprietors with distinguished taste in commercial smokers. Like Cousin’s, Baker’s is a local chain that recognizes the value of using 100-percent hickory smoke, and the restaurant has a Bewley in the kitchen to prove it.

The brisket shows the sign of a good smoke. Each slice has a thick smoke ring and deep black, crispy crust. One big plus here is that an order of either fatty or lean brisket (or a combination of both) doesn’t draw a blank stare from the knife man. Like Sonny Bryan, the experienced cutters here understand what experienced ‘cue lovers crave.

Baker’s namesake ribs aren’t quite as smoky as the beef, but a nice rub combines a swift kick of black pepper with a subtle hint of sweet. These ribs are never tough, but if you order in mid-afternoon, you may find them mushy.  Stick with the lunch rush, and you’ll always have fresh meat along with better-than-average sides, including a dill-flecked smashed potato salad that finds its way onto my plate every time.

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Multiple Locations

  • Garland 488 W. I-30 Garland, TX 75043
  • Mesquite 2202 N. Galloway Ave. Mesquite, TX 75150
  • Rowlett 3318 Lakeview Pkwy. Rowlett, TX 75088
  • Deep Ellum 3033 Main St. Dallas, TX 75226
  • Lower Greenville 4844 Greenville Ave. Dallas, TX 75206
  • Northeast Dallas 6516 E. Northwest Hwy. Dallas, TX 75214
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