In this urbane, downtown, sit-down pizzeria, the water replicates the pH level of Naples, and one room’s vault is intended to evoke Italian churches. Go for vitelli tonnato—an up-do with veal and ahi tuna; bucatini carbonara, creamy with plenty of black pepper; or the Napoletana pizza laden with anchovies, which emerges leopard-spotted from wood-burning ovens. Gelato is best for dessert.