Tiffany Derry’s tribute to the South reminds us of what grace and care one can bring to Southern food. She works her magic with cast-iron cornbread served with strawberry-rhubarb preserves and smoked butter or bitter greens swimming in tangy, smoky potlikker. The triumphant duck fat-fried chicken that has been her calling card for years is crackling-skinned, mahogany-crusted, and extraordinarily brined, while modern Southern takes include sultry, smoked hen of the woods mushrooms fanned over sunny-yellow creamed corn. Cocktails fit a comfort repertoire given an upscale spin.