At Carlo “Botolo” Gattini’s shop, organic milk and cream go into flavors like mascarpone-fig or Ligurian olive oil, and the dark chocolate is an intense midnight scoop made with Valhrona chocolate. Parfaits layer semifreddo with gelato and liquor-soaked biscuit layers, and 8-12 portion ice cream cakes raise the bar on any you’ve tried. Avant-garde sensibilities meet with tradition; the Italian-born gelato-maker’s perfectionism pays off.
