The kitchen’s approach is not rigidly classical at this modern Italian restaurant. Take the tortellini primavera, rolled in a butter sauce with spring onions, haricot verts, and fresh thyme. Inside those tender packets was not the usual ricotta filling but a soft velouté of carrots, turnips, onions—all gentle garden flavors, the vegetables on the inside meeting the vegetables on the outside. Other standouts include the handmade pizzas, and complex cocktails.