Caviar, Iberico ham, diver scallops, and Dover sole hold court at the Preston Hollow restaurant that Avner Samuel revived. But just as quickly as Samuel returned with this North Dallas spot where, in truth, the mezze platter that represents his Israeli roots is stellar, the prolific chef left. Still, a champagne cart accompanies the brunch menu’s rose-water-scented mascarpone pancakes, and the wine cellar is deep.