Open for 35 years and a time capsule of fine dining in the ’70s, this is a throwback to a time when top-of-the-line dining meant French food. It even has pâté. And very good pâté: moist and flavorful, served in traditional form, with a pocket of Dijon, tiny buttered toasts, greens in vinaigrette, and crisp, tart cornichons.