What recession? Kenny Bowers’ place is still swamped during peak hours. Here, it’s all about cosmopolitan, single Addison, and the food is robust and well-prepared. Bowers excels with fish, including nachos topped with rare chunks of tuna, a lunchtime fish club sandwich with tilapia, and creamy clam chowder. Everyone gets a complimentary popover as big as a baseball glove. Looking for a scene? The bar is nicknamed Cougars, for crying out loud.